Miss Ruby Draws The Line: Colette Peony

Why hello, lovelies! Despite what one might think from visiting this blog lately, I have been sewing up a storm for my fall palette. One of my latest creations is an initial version of the new Colette pattern, the Peony dress. I say initial, because...I'm not in love with it. The blame for this, I place on the fabric, not the pattern. I used a cotton poplin from Fabric Mart, which I got for $1.99/yard on sale. The price should have been a sign. This is not the best quality poplin. It's a bit thin, doesn't have great body, and clings to every single bump. Despite the perfect fit of the dress, I have to wear Spanx under this, so the skirt doesn't look lumpy. Spanx requirements do not a perfect dress make.

That being said, however, I really do love the Peony pattern. The bodice is absolutely adorable - shapely, great bateau neckline, and endless possibilities for embellishment. Personally, I took my new pintuck presser foot for a test drive on this pattern. I added five corded pintucks to the center front, using Colette's tutorial. Despite the daunting new foot, this ended up being the easiest technique ever. Which is great news. I love a pintuck! They may be on everything I sew from now on.

Pintucks! (Also, there seems to be a theme here in which I'm holding my shoulders at strange angles. I can assure you that those stress lines are not present when I actually stand like a normal person. I really need to get a new pose, kittens.)

Enough about the pintuck revelation, back to the Peony details! So, the bodice? Wonderful. So simple, it could easily be used as a pattern sloper for other designs. The skirt is also pretty basic - an easy, slightly-fitted A-line. If you carry any weight in the middle, or prefer to gloss over that area of the body, I would try this pattern in a sturdier fabric. Because it is a closer fit, one could easily end up with my Spanx problem.

There is one part of the pattern which I can't give any advice one, however. I chose not to make the cummerbund that comes with the dress. I own 23 belts (yeah, I counted), which means I'm never lacking waist-accenting accessories. It seemed like a waste of time to make a cummerbund which I'll rarely wear with the dress. So, I skipped it. If I were making it for a special occasion, I may experiment with a contrast fabric, but for a day dress, I like belts instead. Overall, the Peony is a great basic dress pattern. Currently, my favorite way to wear it is under a blazer, with tights and boots (my adorable new lace-up Clarks, specifically).

Things I Love:

• The neckline! I love a bateau neck and this one fits the dress proportions very well.
• The pintucks! Okay, I added them myself, but I still love them. I highly suggest trying a corded pintuck, if you haven't yet.
• The versatility! This is really a pattern that's begging to be personalized. It would look great with lace accents or contrast bias tape. Personally, I'm thinking of switching out the skirt for a fuller one and making it out of a lovely autumnal pique from my stash.
  

Things I Changed:

• 1" FBA - Colette's patterns are based on a C cup, so I needed to alter it for my DD bust.
  
• Added pintucks. Which I've gone on about ad nauseum, I know.
• Finished the neckline with bias tape. Y'all know how I feel about facings. It's become almost standard for me to replace them with bias tape at this point. It's just such a cleaner finish.
  

Things I Would Change, If I Made It Again:

• Use a heavier-weight fabric.
• I'm considering adding a bit more volume to the skirt. I just think it would be a bit more flattering to my hips.
  

Tricky Steps & Suggestions:

• Not a one. Kittens, this dress is a breeze. You're not going to find an easier pattern to construct. A few darts, a tiny bit of gathering, and you're done. As with all Colette patterns, the instructions are concise and clear, so there's minimal chance for error.
  

Fabric & Notions:

• Scarlet cotton/lycra stretch poplin - $1.99/yd from Fabric Mart
• Scarlet cotton purl embroidery thread, for corded pintucks
• Red bias tape